It was the Sunday after Easter and the St John Bosco church at Pétionville, Haiti, was crowded beyond capacity, with standing room only. Benches that were built to seat seven were crammed with nine. Sam Howard, a Trini friend who was sitting next to me, sighed, “If another one come to squeeze in, ah cyah take it, ah getting up.”
Seemingly to defy him, a young lady forced herself into the pew and Sam just shrinked himself as much as he could and made room to accommodate the newly arrived. And there was full participation in the Patois Mass.
I had arrived in Haiti on Gloria Saturday for a nine-day visit and after staying two days at the Montana Hotel in Pétionville, a town just outside of Port-au Prince, the capital, I continued my journey by plane up north to Cap Haitien. The situation in the country, according to information I had received from UN security officers, was tense as the people were preparing for parliamentary elections to take place April 21.
Venturing the almost two hundred mile journey over land would mean jogged bumpy travel over mostly unpaved roads, experiencing more than seven hours of turbulent shake up by jeep. The plane flight in the 18-seater twin prop took about half an hour.
At Cap Haitien I felt a little more relaxed, although I might have really been experiencing a sense of false security for I found out later that the north is usually very violent. I should have remembered this, for having been in Haiti in the early 90s, I can recall the numerous brutal incidents emanating from this zone almost daily.
Nevertheless, having had a very restful night in a seaside hotel that overlooks the northern coast, I spent most of the next morning exploring the surrounding area. Very memorable was the uphill trek to Fort Pikole (pronounced pee-coe-lay).
This stone structure now in ruins dates back to the time of Henri Christophe, and visitors today can still see the rusted canons, and imagine the impregnability of this stronghold with its metre thick walls. Another unforgettable feature alongside the fort is the abandoned, disintegrating lighthouse majestically poised on the brow of the hill, a historical monument to behold.
Guided by a Haitian friend I walked through these remains of history and found evidence of recent human activity. As was pointed out to me, the half-burnt candles and calabash of cooked provisions signified a voodoo celebration.
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Felix (right) and Sam chat outside the St John Bosco church, Petionville, after Mass. |
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Felix and Haitian friend, Fritz, in front of the abandoned lighthouse, Cap Haitien |
I was in this region for the elections which played out with no major incident, though at nighttime I heard that a candidate was arrested for disrupting activities at a polling centre.
But there was no organised violence as in former times. The following day I flew my way back to Port-au-Prince. Haiti , often referred to as the poorest country in the western hemisphere, needs a lot of financial help from its neighbours. I had last visited this nation in 1994 and was eager to return to see what progress was made.
Today the rest of the Caribbean is moving towards development, but there I found the situation the same as before: lacking water, electricity, roads… but very friendly and accommodating people, with an illiteracy rate, I was informed, of over 50%.
I saw it myself on Election Day when I had to assist electors who could not find their names on the electoral lists. They could not read, and so to facilitate them photos were displayed with the names.
Can you imagine looking through a list of hundreds of photos to find your mini-photo? So I took their I.D. card and easily found the name.
With all the misery that they are experiencing, today they are very hopeful.
It seems that at last they have a president who is accepted by both the rich and the poor factions of the country. Réné Préval won the Presidential Election, which took place February 7, and will be installed May 14.
From my conversations with Haitians on both sides of the financial divide my conclusion is that he can make a difference by bringing both parties together to build the country. There has been a significant reduction in violence and even the “famed” Cité Soleil is calm.
At the Sunday Mass you could have seen the joyful expression of a people of hope. The offertory was heralded by a dance of the young approaching the altar with rhythmic movements, their offerings of local produce, which earth has created, in perfect balance on their heads. Bringing up the rear of the procession were two young men, one carrying sugar cane, the other a watermelon.
The celebration was long, about two hours, but spiritually uplifting. My friend Sam confirmed this as we were processing out of the church. “Ah glad ah come; it was long but ah enjoy this Mass. ”
And so as I wended my way through the street market that was in lively and boisterous activity just outside the church, I looked at the Haitians, struggling to make a meaningful life out of the little they possess, and I knew that I must keep on praying that the experience of the Easter season will spur them on to achieve the glory promised by the Resurrection.
Let us all join in prayer for our neighbour, that the peace and joy of the risen Lord may reign in their hearts and bring them life in abundance. |